What is bottarga? Discovering Mediterranean Caviar
My name is Yohan Koskas, one of the partners at Koskas & Fils, a house renowned for its mastery in the production of boutargue, also known as poutargue. As a third-generation heir of a passionate family, I have had the privilege of watching our family business evolve from its humble beginnings initiated by my grandfather, who came from Tunisia, to its transformation into a respected brand on the international market.
Boutargue, often called the caviar of the Mediterranean, is a refined culinary specialty made from mullet eggs. This sea product is highly esteemed for its distinctive taste and rich texture, attributes that earn it a prime spot among the most prized dishes. Over the decades, under my father's enlightened direction, we have not only preserved the authenticity of our boutargue but also innovated to meet contemporary standards of quality and sustainability.
Today, along with my brothers Franck, Stephan and Laurence, we continue this legacy by focusing on excellence and expanding our global presence. Our goal is to make the subtleties of this exceptional dish known to as many as possible and to perpetuate the tradition of Koskas & Fils as synonymous with superior quality and artisanal craftsmanship.
What is bottarga ?
I often have the opportunity to explain what boutargue is, a question that always arouses interest. Boutargue, also known as poutargue, is a product of Mediterranean gastronomy, renowned for its rich taste and history. It is made from the eggs of mullet, a fish prized for the quality of its roe.
This delicate dish is traditionally prepared by salting and drying the mullet's egg sacs, which gives boutargue its characteristic waxy texture and intense umami taste. The color can vary from golden amber to russet brown, depending on the drying time and the type of salt used. The manufacturing process, which we inherited from my grandfather and have perfected over generations, is an art in itself, requiring precision and patience.
Within our family, we regard boutargue as the caviar of the Mediterranean due to its rarity and prestige. It is a product that embodies the fusion of tradition and craftsmanship, with each step of its preparation carried out with meticulous care to ensure unparalleled quality. Koskas & Fils' boutargue is synonymous with tradition, excellence, and an unbreakable link to our cultural heritage.
How is bottarga created? From mullet harvesting to production
Creating bottarga is an art I learned from my father and grandfather, two prominent figures in our family whose teachings continue to guide every gesture we make at Koskas & Fils. Both have passed away, but their spirit and craftsmanship endure through our daily work.
The process starts at dawn, on the coasts where the mullet is captured. These fish, especially the females, are prized for their precious eggs. My grandfather often told me that to make good boutargue, one must start by respecting the fish and its environment. We work closely with local fishermen who understand the importance of fishing responsibly to ensure the sustainability of this tradition.
Once the mullets are caught, the delicate process of harvesting the egg sacs can begin. This step must be performed with surgical precision. Each sac is carefully extracted to avoid any rupture, as a damaged sac cannot be transformed into quality boutargue. After extraction, the sacs are gently washed with cold seawater, then salted with natural sea salt. My father emphasized the importance of salt, choosing only crystals that promote a uniform cure without altering the subtle texture of the eggs.
Once salted, we press the sacs between special wooden boards, a technique that my grandfather perfected over the years. This process slowly presses out excess water from the eggs while giving them their characteristic flat and oval shape. The eggs are then left to dry in a well-ventilated area, protected from direct sunlight but exposed to the sea breeze that imparts a slight iodine aroma to the boutargue.
The manufacturing of boutargue is a symphony of patience, respect, and tradition, a symphony that we at Koskas & Fils are committed to preserving. Each piece of boutargue we produce is a tribute to my grandfather and father, a link between the past and the future, between our family and those seeking to discover the authentic flavors of the Mediterranean.
Other types of bottarga
Although mullet boutargue is the most widespread and traditional, other variants exist around the world, each with its own techniques and distinct flavors.
- Tuna Boutargue: More rare and considered a niche specialty, this version is made from tuna eggs. It is highly appreciated for its firmer texture and slightly more pronounced taste than that of mullet.
- Japanese Poutargue (Karasumi): In Japan, poutargue is known as Karasumi. Made from the eggs of mullet or sometimes sea bass, it is often compared to foie gras for its richness and complex flavor profile. Japanese traditionally consume it with sake, in thin slices, making it a highly gastronomic delight.
- Greek Poutargue (Avgotaraho): In Greece, poutargue, called Avgotaraho, is a specialty of the Messolonghi region, famous for its fish-rich lagoons. The preparation method and natural drying contribute to a distinctively fruity and rich flavor, making Avgotaraho a prized ingredient in many traditional Greek dishes.
How do we eat bottarga ?
The way to savor bottarga is almost as rich and varied as its history, you can find many recipe ideas with boutargue on our site. In my family, my earliest memories related to boutargue date back to my childhood, during family gatherings where the product was always presented as a culinary treasure. My grandfather sliced the boutargue with ritual precision, in almost translucent thin slices, which we simply savored on a piece of warm bread with a drizzle of olive oil. This was a way to highlight its intense and slightly salty flavor, a tradition that we proudly continue.
For those new to boutargue, here are some suggestions on how to best appreciate it:
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Mediterranean Style: Simply sliced thinly and drizzled with a bit of lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil, on a slice of toasted bread. This allows you to fully taste the rich and complex flavor of the boutargue, with a touch of freshness provided by the lemon.
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In Dishes: Grated boutargue can be an excellent addition to pasta dishes or risottos, where it replaces grated cheese for an umami and maritime touch.
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In Salad: Incorporated into salads, such as fennel or orange, where its salty taste wonderfully contrasts with the sweetness of the fruits and the freshness of the vegetables.
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As an Appetizer: Combined with nuts or almonds for an appetizer rich in textures and flavors, accompanied by a dry white wine or a glass of champagne.
Each method reveals a different facet of boutargue, making each bite an exploration of tastes and traditions. For me, eating boutargue is both a return to those bright mornings of my childhood and a celebration of the bonds that unite our family across generations.